The first dimension – the basis for all my dishes – constitutes each individual product’s natural flavour. I believe there is no more authentic and intense flavour than the original, pure flavour of a product. I therefore always place the natural flavour in the foreground. We often work for weeks with various techniques to create my purist ‘taste bombs,’ going beyond taste boundaries. For example, my ‘pure venison’ dish is refined from year to year: rather than creating a gravy in the traditional way of lightly roasting meat and vegetables together, a jus was developed using the unadulterated juices of the venison meat. To create this jus, the meat is first coarsely minced and then heated, vacuum-packed, in a bain-marie. The pure juice released from the meat is then boiled down in a vacuum evaporator. The resulting essence is served as a sauce with the venison – without adding any spices, roasted aromas or tannins.
The second dimension of my cuisine describes how I prepare dishes: characterised by a penchant for low-temperature cooking, the motto is ‘take the foot off the gas.’ By this, I mean not only the time taken to prepare a dish but, above all, the temperature at which it is cooked. Rather than pan-searing a fillet of fish, for instance, I braise it for a few minutes in homemade infused oil at just 55°C. In addition, meat and vegetables are cooked ‘sous vide,’ i.e. in a bain-marie, bringing out the different aromas and automatically creating a more relaxed atmosphere in the kitchen.
The third dimension represents the extensive range of my cuisine: a set menu is more than a series of disparate courses, it is composed like a symphony. Sometimes the violin can be heard, at other times the oboe – but strong emotions are only ever aroused when the whole orchestra comes together. Supposed opposites are skilfully staged when composing a set menu: purist dishes are juxtaposed with playfully arranged plates, creating a sensuous dramaturgy.